Turkish Wine Selection: Andrea’s Picks
- Andrea Lemieux
- Nov 1
- 4 min read
Author of The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine (edition 2 just released!), Andrea Lemieux, has been working with Turkish wine for more than 10 years. She writes about it, she gives wine tastings and tours out of Istanbul, and she is a big promoter of Turkish wine in the international wine community. So wouldn't it be great to tasted a few of her favorites?
Well, this month’s Turkish Wine Trio does just that! Get the wines, get the book, and dive into this unexpected, but beautiful and compelling wine country with three fantastic choices:
I have loved Papazkarası since my very fist sip. It was actually a pretty rare find back in the day with only wineries like Chamlija, Melen, and then Edrine working with it. Suddenly, an explosion of new Papaskarası wines were popping up right and left at Thracian wineries, but many of them blanc de noir or rosé. This is such a beautiful red wine, it annoyed me to no end that people felt the need to make it into something else.
I bought the Odrysia blanc de noir partially because I feel compelled to try all new (native grape) wines and (to no small degree) because I loved the label. I have a mild obsession with peacocks. Entirely prepared to look at this as just another wine jumping on a new trend bandwagon, I was forced to change my mind after just a few sips! This wine blew me away then and continues to do so whenever I’m lucky enough to open a bottle.
Tasting notes: Aromas of olives and zesty citrus fruits introduce this white wine made from the local black varietal: Papaskarası. Juicy meyer lemon and green apple flavors merge with a briny tanginess lending balance to delicate dried floral notes, bright acidity, and a silky olive oil finish. A complex wine nevertheless suitable for easy drinking. Pairs well with light dishes and Mediterranean flavors often found in Turkish meze.
Sultaniye is an interesting grape. I received mixed messages about this in my early research days with several people telling me this was not vitis vinifera (aka a wine grape) when in fact, it is, just an oddly seedless one. It’s the most widely planted grape in Turkey, but with almost the entire production going to table grapes and raisin and molasses production. Most Sultaniye vineyards on the Denizli Plateau march along in neat rows trellised on wires. This is probably the only place here where viticulture is mechanized.
People have made Sultaniye wines for years. They were just largely flabby, insipid, or otherwise uninteresting. Paşaeli was the first, as it so often is, to make quality wine with it. But no one else picked up the challenge until Heraki came on to the scene. Sourcing grapes from older bush vines and treated to the full scale of Fulya and José’s skill, their Sultaniye wines are things of tension and power. Which is also how this wine got its name.
Tasting notes: Gentle yet inviting with old vine finesse. Ripe golden apple and tangy lemon form the core, accented by a delicate nutty character and creamy vanilla undertones. Oak maturation brings a rounded structure, balanced by vibrant acidity from its high-altitude origins. Long, clean, with delicate pistachio lingering on the palate.
I said I love Papazkarası, and I do. I love several Turkish grapes. But it’s Karasakız I love the most. For me, this is the ultimate expression of Turkey. From the first wine debuted by Paşaeli (I told you it’s always the first) to Suvla’s savory rosé and impressive and ageable traditional method sparkling blanc de noir and rosé, I fell deeply in love with Karasakız when I first started drinking Turkish wine.
Aside from Paşaeli and Suvla though, we didn’t see much of this grape. It has, however, enjoyed a huge burst of popularity over the last few years. I was ecstatic when I saw Heraki release one under its Akuarela label. If any wine were appropriate for a line called ‘Watercolor’, it was this practically see-through but complex wine. The traditional method bubbles aside (because bubbles will always own my heart) Heraki’s is my favorite Karasakız. My favorite favorite, if you will!
Tasting notes: A pale, nearly transparent ruby color hides an intensely aromatic wine. Pronounced black pepper spice aromas embrace refreshingly juicy raspberries, red currants, and young cherries laid over a subtle layer of dried fruit and earthy base notes. The soft hints of damp soil ground the wine, adding interest without overwhelming. Smooth yet firm acidity gives vibrancy while tannins are enough to give structure without roughness, resulting in a wine with a gorgeous silky texture that is approachable, full of character and flexible at any table setting.
As always, you can enjoy and purchase each of these wines and many more at the Fine Turkish Wine Bottle Shop + Tasting Room, located in Houston's Montrose District at 1909 Dunlavy Street.
Andrea Lemieux is an international wine expert with particular expertise in Turkish Wine. She is the author of The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine, the world's only comprehensive English language book on Turkish wine. She is also the author of The Quick and Dirty Guide to Greek Wine and the founder of The Quirky Cork blog which is dedicated largely to Turkish wine.