Turkish Wine Selection: Taste the History of Turkey’s Old Vines
- Andrea Lemieux
- May 31
- 3 min read
In her best-selling book, The Wine Bible, Karen MacNeil cites grape geneticist, Dr. José Vouillamoz, saying, “Turkey may not have as much cachet as Bordeaux, but Anatolia… is in effect the world’s first wine appellation…”* Given this level of history, it should come as no surprise that the country is peppered with old vineyards.
Planted as bush vines, many of Turkey’s vineyards exceed 100 years in age, and some reach an incredible 250 years! These vines, with their thick, sinewy trunks, grow across the country, from its Western borders in Thrace, to the heights of the Taurus Mountains along the Mediterranean coast, to the heat of the southeast at the entrance of the Mesopotamian "sea."
What does history taste like? Sip on a bottle of Arda Gala Papazkarası, Akberg Büyükbağ Erciş Karası, or Heraki Novakula Boğazkere and find out!
Papazkarası enjoys a storied history in Turkey, stretching back to the Eastern Roman Empire. It is said that the Byzantine popes heading the Eastern Orthodox Church in Constantinople preferred wines made from this grape, which is how the grape got its name. Many Turkish grapes carry a name that translates to “the black (grape) of [insert place name]”, but not Papazkarası! Papazkarası means “the black (grape) of the pope”.
While Arda’s Papazkarası vines aren’t quite as old as the Byzantine Empire… they’re still, officially, “old”. Arda works closely with independent grower Ismail Altıparmak to source its Papazkarası grapes. Ismail’s vineyards, located near Lake Gala in Turkey’s western Thrace, sit at an elevation of 426 feet above sea level and are home to vines that are over 40 years old.
Arda’s winemaker Şeniz Saç makes multiple wines with this revered grape, including this month’s selection of a blanc de noir.
Tasting Notes: This white wine made in the blanc de noir style from a local black grape variety shows a rosy peach hue, highlighting white peach, red cherry, and strawberry aromas. Fresh white and red fruits on the palate complement lime rind and whispers of light florals, finishing with hints of green olives and a dark olive brininess over a wonderfully textured mouthfeel, indicative of the blanc de noir winemaking style.
Akberg’s ‘Büyükbağ’ series perfectly encapsulated its philosophy. Büyükbağ means “large vineyard”, and reflects Akberg’s vision of working with independent growers across the country. One of those vineyards sits on the northeast shores of Lake Van in Turkey’s northeastern Van province. Here, 35-year-old Erciş Karası vines perch at an incredible 5,740 feet above sea level!
Tasting Notes: Fragrant pronounced layers of dried strawberry, cherry, black currant, and dried rose petals with plum and pomegranate in the foreground mingle with earthy undertones and a touch of coriander. Lively acidity highlights firm yet elegant tannins, creating a vibrant gentle structure with notes of black pepper ending with a polished, fresh finish.
The story of Heraki’s Novakula is one of a great rescue mission. When winery owners Fulya Akıncı and José Hernández first found the 36-year-old vineyard, which turned out to be the oldest Boğazkere vineyard Turkey's southwestern Aegean region of in Denizli, the owner was on the verge of ripping out the vines to plant Merlot.
The horror!
Luckily, Fulya and José managed to convince the owner to sell them his grapes. It didn’t take long before the owner and his sons caught their enthusiasm and began to appreciate the respect the couple have for the vines. The result is an incredible expression of one of Turkey's most storied indigenous varieties!
Tasting Notes: Complex and earthy with bold austerity, this red wine has incredible old vine personality! Its journey begins with raspberry, ripe cherry, tart cranberry, blueberry, and damson plum before revealing spicy black pepper, cloves, and cardamom. Raspberry leaf and eucalyptus notes lend aromatic complexity. Notes of dried fruit and vanilla hint at the deft use of oak. Bold acidity balances strong tannins, with sweet undertones of spice and dark cocoa nibs softening the body, leading to a refined and clean structure in every element. Tannic, fruity and savory throughout the long finish, promising beautiful evolution with decanting and cellar age. This wine is elegant, powerful and memorable.
You can enjoy and purchase each of these wines at the Fine Turkish Wine Bottle Shop + Tasting Room, located in Houston's Montrose District at 1909 Dunlavy Street.
*MacNeil, K. (2015), The Wine Bible (2nd ed.). Workman Publishing pg 26.
Andrea Lemieux is an international wine expert with particular expertise in Turkish Wine. She is the author of The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine, the world's only comprehensive English language book on Turkish wine, and she is the founder of The Quirky Cork blog which is dedicated largely to Turkish wine.
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